Often overlooked by holidaymakers on their way to Thailand or the nearby Southeast Asian islands, Malaysia has been working hard to promote itself as a tourist destination.

The country was already building from a strong base. It attracted 15.7 million overseas visitors in 2004, while Japan was happy to break six million. All the right buttons were pushed in the ubiquitous and award-winning 'Malaysia, Truly Asia' campaign, which portrayed the country as colorful, exotic, harmonious and welcoming. All well and good, but what lies behind this glossy facade?

A favored cliche of Japan observers is that this is a nation of contrasts - kimono and kogyaru, matsuri and Makudonarudo. Maybe so, but cosmopolitan KL offers way more variety. It has large Chinese and Indian communities, in addition to the native Malays, and serves up a smorgasbord of food, culture, architecture and religion. Even the city's name is a reference to blending and diversity - Kuala Lumpur means 'muddy estuary' in Malay, and originates from the convergence of the Gombak and Klang rivers in the city center.

Around 60% of Malaysia's population is Muslim, and they exercise control over the nation's administration and politics. However, more than 50% of KL's residents are of Chinese extraction and they dominate Malaysia's economy. This situation is mostly tolerated on each side, but inequalities, both real and imagined, can create friction. The minority Indian community is routinely squeezed out of positions of influence, and, understandably, their frustrations occasionally surface.

KL's towering, modern municipal and office buildings are testament to Malaysia's success in developing its economy and society since independence. The city boasts the regional offices of many multinational companies, has a well-established expatriate community and better infrastructure than most Southeast Asian cities. In the shadows of the major buildings, commerce and culture fill every available space, and Hindu and Buddhist temples sit in close proximity to mosques.

Certain etiquette is appropriate around mosques, but any preconceptions of Malaysia as a strict Muslim state are immediately banished by the ready availability of alcohol. Many of the best bars can be found in the Bangsar area, some 10km southwest of the city center, and anyone who has taken a shine to Roppongi will feel right at home there. If you do feel the need to spend the duration of your trip drowning in cheap beer, head straight for Langkawi, a duty free haven located off Malaysia's north west coast.

Those that prefer a more sedate pace might try a cafe or hotel cocktail bar in the Golden Triangle area, the modern center of KL. It incorporates most of the shopping malls and higher end hotels, and is marked by major roads such as Jalan Bukit Bintang, Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Imbi.

Up-market shops can be found at the Suria KLCC complex, just north of the Golden Triangle. Housed in the bottom floors of the futuristic Petronas Towers, until recently the world's tallest building, it is impossible to miss. International brands pull in some high-class customers, but KLCC is worth a visit even if you don't intend to blow your holiday budget on a designer bag. A huge food court on the second floor offers a variety of basic Malaysian cuisine at very reasonable prices, and Kinokuniya has a great selection of good value English-language books.

The gardens at the back of KLCC are a nice place to laze away a couple of hours people-watching. Events are often held here, ranging from traditional dancing through pop promos to X-Games trials. When the temperature gets unbearably hot many people go for a dip in the pond-cum-bathing pool, often fully clothed to preserve their dignity.

Bargain hunters will appreciate KL's lively Chinatown, centered around Jalan Petaling and its famous street market. Clothes, jewelry, music and movies, all of dubious authenticity, are among the goods offered at rock bottom prices, and negotiation is expected. This is also a great place to eat out, with both standard and specialized Chinese fare for all budgets and tastes.

If you're not sure what to try, order 'chicken rice'. This simple, satisfying dish, which comes with slices of cucumber and some chili sauce, usually costs less than RM10 (300 yen). Malaysia's lychees, mangoes, starfruit and melons are also pleasingly cheap and delicious. Local specialty durian is an acquired taste - the biggest challenge being a stench that makes natto seem like Chanel No.5 and has seen the fruit banned from many hotel foyers.

One of the most popular day trips from KL is to the nearby Batu Caves. These immense limestone grottos are home to a Hindu temple, and attract pilgrims from far and wide. Particularly popular is the annual Thaipusam festival, which takes place in January or February. Monkeys patrol the colorful 282-step staircase leading up into the caves, and the calm atmosphere is refreshing after the hustle and bustle of KL.

Just two hours south west of KL by bus is Malacca, an interesting port town with Portuguese influences. The old town's long high street, Jalan Hang Jebat, or Jonker Street, is renowned for its antique shops. It also home to several specialist Chinese tea shops and cafes, and seemingly every side street has a hidden gem - sometimes a curiosity shop, sometimes a temple or garden.

In good weather, boat rides are offered a short distance up the Malacca River. Starting from near the Stadthuys, formerly the official residence of the Dutch Governor, these guided trips are a good way to get oriented and view the town from a different perspective. There's some interesting aquatic wildlife to see, too. The brown water of the river may not look hospitable, but it is home to disturbingly large carnivorous monitor lizards, cousins of Indonesia's famous Komodo Dragons.

Three hours north of KL are the Cameron Highlands, a cool upland area of tea plantations and jungle that has some attractive colonial era accommodation. Two small towns can serve as bases. Tanah Rata, gateway to the Highlands plateau, has a predominantly Indian population and several good places to eat. Bringchang, to the north, has more of a Chinese feel, is relatively built-up and has a few useful shops for picking up basic supplies.

Fairly easy trekking can be done here, but serious adventurers should head further east to the Taman Negara national park, where guided tours of up to several days offer a more intense experience. Genting Highlands, often talked up by people in KL, is a rather depressing gambling resort north of the city and best avoided.

English is far more widely spoken in Malaysia than in Japan, but it is not easy to penetrate far below the surface of life in this vibrant country. There are many reasons for this, not least ethnic and political tensions that are frequently alluded to but rarely discussed in public. It offers an interesting jumble of sights and sounds, cultures and cuisines, and KL's tangible energy makes Japan seem positively sluggish. As in Japan, curiosity, patience, respect and a willingness to engage with people are key to getting the most from your visit.