Preconceptions of Japan often cloud reality. Those attracted by the bright lights, energy and fashion of modern Japanese cities may miss the underlying nuance and history. Conversely, people expecting to find a land of refined design and a population living in harmony with their environment are likely to be disappointed by the country's contemporary urban architecture and surprised by the prevalence of McDonald's and Starbucks.

Nikko, just two hours north of Tokyo and famous for its colorful shrines, is as far north as many foreign residents and visitors venture. Along with other major stops on the temple tourism trail, such as Kyoto, Nara and Kamakura, Nikko offers a glimpse of a lost Japan but is tarnished by tour bus groups and tacky gift shops.

If history, design and the natural environment are what you're seeking in Japan, head for the mountains. Invest a few days exploring the often neglected northern region of Tohoku and a wealth of increasingly rare traditional sights and sounds await.

This agricultural area is renowned for its jumble of impenetrable local dialects and the quality and variety of its fresh produce. Each prefecture is associated with a specialty; ask any Japanese person and they will tell you about Aomori's apples, Akita's rice and Miyagi's beef tongue.

Yamagata prefecture is no exception. Cherries are big business here - there is even a large "Cherry Land" shopping center in the town of Sagae that is dedicated to promoting and selling all manner of sakuranbo-related products. Fruit lovers will also appreciate the local grapes and pears, while the ayu (sweetfish) are a real treat.

Despite being off most tourist radars, Yamagata serves up an amazing variety of mountain scenery, hot springs, winter sports, festivals, local cuisine and temples. Yamadera, a small town situated about 10km northeast of Yamagata City, the prefectural capital, exemplifies much of the best of the area.

It is rather prosaically named after its principle landmark, a mountain temple ("yama" means mountain, and "dera" denotes a temple). Although both the town and temple are commonly referred to as Yamadera, the official name of the temple is Ryushaku-ji. Founded in 860AD by monks from the Tendai sect with links to Enryaku-ji near Kyoto, it is one of very few mountain temple complexes in Japan.

Matsuo Basho, the famous wandering poet of the Edo era, passed through while creating his best-known collection, Narrow Road to the Deep North. His haiku describing the atmosphere of Yamadera reveals the season in which he arrived:

Yamadera changes dramatically in ambience and appearance according to the season. Each offers something unique for visitors, although summer is perhaps the least enjoyable - along with the noisy cicadas comes a crush of tourists and a stifling heat.

Spring blossom and autumn colors add to the spectacular views from the upper slopes, but winter is arguably the best time to visit Yamadera. Both the town and mountain are almost deserted, and the quiet shroud of heavy snow lends the temple a mystical air that is absent at busier periods.

The entrance to the temple is a sign of what lays ahead - a set of steep, stone steps rising from the street. Ryushaku-ji consists of dozens of buildings dotted all over the mountainside. Several line the path as it runs parallel to the town along a short, low plateau. In one area, a collection of jizo (bodhisattva) figures watches over passing visitors.

After a few minutes, a large wooden board looms into view. It hosts a map of the mountain, showing the route up and marking all the temple buildings, and also indicates the start of the climb towards Oku-no-in, the inner sanctuary of Ryushaku-ji.

A monk collects a 300 yen entrance fee, a small price to pay for the upkeep of the stone steps and temple complex. In winter, rubber boots and walking sticks are available free of charge for those who arrive unequipped. From here, the going gets tough. More than 1,000 steps must be traversed to reach Oku-no-in, and the snow means the ascent will take around an hour.

The steps zigzag up through a cedar forest, with the tall, straight trees taking the brunt of the winter wind. Temple workers shovel and brush snow from the path throughout the day. In places it can be treacherously icy, but the groups of hunched Japanese grandmothers seem remarkably surefooted. Small buildings and statues provide visual distractions along the route, while regular patches of flat land allow climbers to catch their breath.

A large wooden gatehouse straddles the path, dividing the forest below from the temple above. More steps lead to Oku-no-in, the inner sanctuary, and the rewards for climbing become apparent. The tranquility of Yamadera resounds around the rocky slopes and the temple buildings perched on them. Hundreds of meters below the valley floor is pure white, sprinkled with houses and fields and flanked by mountains. The view from the godai platform, tucked around a corner a short distance down from Oku-no-in, is stunning. Modern Japan suddenly seems very far away.

After safely descending the icy steps, there is no better way to warm up than a steaming bowl of handmade soba noodles with local mountain vegetables. Throw in a day skiing at nearby Mt. Zao, which boasts some of the best pistes in the country and an attractive caldera, and Yamagata proves a destination that allows you to tick several boxes on your "to do" list in Japan.