Ise-jingu (�ɐ��_�{) in Mie prefecture is the holiest Shinto shrine in Japan - so holy in fact that its official name is simply "Jingu" (shrine). In contrast with the gaudy colors and Chinese flavor of Nikko, Ise's complex of more than one hundred buildings presents a plain and solemn face to its six million annual visitors. But it is far from dull, and the fact that the most sacred areas are off-limits to the public adds to its tangible sense of mystique.

Unusually, the shrine is divided into two main sections that are separated by a distance of some five kilometers. The Outer Shrine (Geku / �O�{) is just a short walk from Ise-shi station, while the more expansive and impressive Inner Shrine (Naiku / ���{) is nestled in the hills a 15-minute bus ride away.

The shrine's informative website gives the following guidance: �gFrom ancient times, it is a custom for worshipers to visit Geku first and then Naiku. It is recommended that everybody including the Emperor, members of the Imperial Family, the Prime Minister and the members of the Cabinet follow the custom. However, if you have only little time to spend at Ise, you are advised to visit Naiku.�h

This is excellent advice. Many visitors who initially make their way to the Outer Shrine feel somewhat underwhelmed. The grounds and nearby lake are pleasant enough, but other than a sense of grandeur there is little to differentiate it from many other Shinto shrines in towns and cities across the country. Its location near the city center doesn't do it any favors - urban Ise is rather drab and depressing, with little to interest people from out of town.

The Inner Shrine, said to be more than 2,000 years old, is a different matter. The jewel in Shinto's crown, it is dedicated to the most important figure in Japanese mythology, the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami, the original ancestor of the imperial family and effectively mother of Japan. The kami (god) of the Outer Shrine is Toyouke Omikami, the god of harvest, responsible for providing food for the more important Amaterasu Omikami.

Visitors access the Inner Shrine via the Uji Bridge over the Isuzu River, the crossing of which is accompanied by a sense of passing into a different realm. The shrine's literature describes the bridge as leading, �gpeople from the everyday to the sacred world,�h a feeling that is emphasized by the presence of a large wooden torii gate at either end.

Colorful koi carp swim freely in the river, which both protects and decorates one side of the shrine grounds. It also serves a more important purpose. �gSince ancient times, pilgrims to the Jingu have purified their hands here, before worshiping Amaterasu Omikami. By washing their hands and rinsing their mouth with the water from the pristine Isuzu River they purify their minds and bodies.�h

The beautifully kept, wide gravel pathways that lead to and from the inner sanctum offer calming views of hills and forests that stretch into the distance. Bordering the paths are areas of natural forest, cedar and moss, all meticulously manicured in the understated manner that seems innate to the best Japanese gardens. Occasional, tantalizing glimpses can be caught of the thatched roofs of the shrine buildings. The only interruptions are the slow swish of relaxed footsteps on the gravel and the lazy wind brushing the treetops. In places such as this, modern Japan, with its throngs of people and relentless noise, seems long ago and far, far away.

For the past 1,300 years the shrine buildings have been dismantled and exact, costly replicas erected on adjacent plots of land at intervals of twenty years. The current buildings date from 1993, and the 62nd shikinen sengu (reconstruction ceremony) is due to be held in 2013, at which time the bridge will also be rebuilt.

 

If the idyllic description tempts you to make a personal pilgrimage, bear in mind a couple of things in order to avoid disappointment.

One is that, unsurprisingly, Ise gets its share of mindless tour bus day-trippers. They are herded around the main sights at high pace, not stopping to take in much more than the shrill whistles of their group leaders. Despite its holy status, many Japanese visitors seem more focused on getting mug shots and souvenirs for their relatives than on paying their respects to Amaterasu Omikami or the ambience of the Inner Shrine. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to enjoy the shrine grounds in relative peace and quiet.

Also, unless you are the kind of person who enjoys squeezing onto a Japanese commuter train in the morning, New Year at Ise is not recommended. Around two million people supposedly celebrate oshougatsu at Meiji-jingu in Tokyo. The shrines at Ise, a city of just 100,000 people, are said to attract up to three million visitors.

There are plenty of shops and restaurants to cater to (or take advantage of) the needs of the hordes of hungry pilgrims. In this, too, the Inner Shrine proves superior to its counterpart in town.

The area around the Outer Shrine and near Ise station offers only standard fare, but Oharaimachi, the old street that forms the approach to the Inner Shrine, is lined with shops selling interesting regional crafts. These are good for browsing, and sell cheap souvenirs alongside more expensive handmade crafts and ornaments.

Refueling options at the many restaurants include all the usual teishoku (set meals), but take care with your choice of dining establishment because the prices and quality do vary. Among local specialties popular with the tour bus tourists are akafuku, an old fashioned sweet made from mochi and red anko bean paste, and Ise udon, noodles with a thick soy sauce and sake broth and sometimes seasoned with spring onion and red pepper.

The merchandise is not the only appealing thing about Oharaimachi. Many buildings along the street and its side roads date from the Edo period, and although not all are original structures they are attractive, well preserved and add to visitors' experiences.

Just over one hour by train from Nagoya, Ise is a convenient day-trip destination. If you have more time on your hands, a good option is to stay overnight and tie-in a visit to nearby Toba, which looks over Ise Bay and is famed for its seafood and aquarium.

Toba can even be used as an entry point to Mie prefecture, should you choose to arrive by ferry. Boats travel regularly between Toba and Tokoname, which is located next to Centrair, Nagoya's international airport. The ferry ride does not take much longer than rail or road, and the slow pace of the trip allows time to unwind and adjust to a more relaxed rhythm.