Each summer in Japan is marked by the mass migration of people returning to their hometowns to celebrate Obon. Arguably the most important holiday in the Japanese calendar, Obon is an annual Buddhist festival during which families gather to remember and honor their ancestors.

As in many aspects of Japanese life, Buddhist and traditional rituals are mixed as people pay their respects by visiting graves and offering food at their butsudan (household altar) or a local temple. Some may also light lanterns or fires to guide home the spirits of the departed.

Domestic Obon customs are often complemented by communal events, usually involving odori (dance). One of the most famous Bon Odori in the country takes place in Gujo Hachiman, a small, attractive town built around two rivers in central Gifu prefecture.

Gujo�fs festival is unique in that it begins in July and continues until early September, with dancing every evening from 8:00pm to 10:30pm (or 11:30pm on Saturdays). Another special feature is the tetsuya-odori (all night dancing) from August 13th to 16th, the main days of Obon. Dancing begins at 8:00pm and ends at around 4:00am or 5:00am, depending on the mood of the musicians and dancers, and these are the best days on which to visit.

The Gujo odori is based around ten simple but compelling songs played live on shamisen, flute and drums and broadcast on speakers throughout the town. Each song has its own easy to learn dance, all of which are slow, formulaic and rhythmical. As the hours pass by both individuals and the collective group seem to attain a trance-like serenity, and an atmosphere befitting a festival of spirits descends on Gujo�fs narrow, old streets.

Feudal lord Yoshitaka Endo started the festival more than 400 years ago by. He wanted to encourage all of Gujo�fs citizens to come together, regardless of their profession or social status. This ethic is still in evidence - all are welcome to join the dancing, and many more people participate than watch. During tetsuya-odori thousands of tourists, most wearing yukata and geta, swell the ranks of dancers.

The location of the dance changes every night, but the town is small enough that you can just show up and follow the sound of music. As more people join, the lines of dancers become five or six deep, and those new to the festival can quickly pick up the moves by shadowing the veterans. The songs are played in a specific order, which is helpful for first-timers trying to get into the swing of things, although not every song is played on every night of dancing. A special song called "Matsusaka" is used to mark the end of festivities each night.

The Bon Odori is reason enough to visit Gujo - it is a special experience that even long-term foreign residents of Japan, and indeed many urban Japanese, will find fascinating and moving. While you�fre there, try to see past the typical festival fare and seek out one of Gujo�fs many excellent soba restaurants. Sitting down with some refreshing zaru soba (cold buckwheat noodles served on a bamboo tray) or a bowl of steaming sansai soba (hot soba noodles with mountain vegetables) provides a chance to rest your legs and recharge your batteries to last through the night.

Those unable to make it to the Bon Odori can still try their hand at the dancing at the Gujo Hachiman Hakurankan City Museum. Lessons are held daily throughout the year from 11:00am-1:00pm and 2:00pm-3:00pm. Throw in an attractive castle perched on a hillside overlooking the town, and an interesting shop making and selling uncannily realistic plastic replica food, and Gujo offers a good one or two day break at any time of year. But for something truly out of the ordinary try to be there sometime between August 13th and 16th.